- And although it reminds us of cursed writers, it’s the most versatile item this fall.
- Sport, informal, business and night: here are all the tricks to get it right.
It was Allen Ginsberg who organized the blind date between Jack Kerouac and Joyce Johnson. They ended up together and shared life some months between 1957 and 1958, a time that the writer remembered in her book ‘Secondary Characters’ (1983). He writes: “The Beat generation sold books, sold turtlenecks, sold berets and dark glasses, sold a way of life so dangerously funny that it was imitated and condemned in equal parts.” Because fashion always reflects in society.
Thus, the turtleneck turtleneck sweater (swan neck in Spain) has military origin, like almost all male fashion, thanks to the American Navy, and a meeting with street fashion in the 20s of the last century. But, above all, a great aesthetic lace with the intellectually rebellious generations from the 50s. The high neck is a writer a little lost bullet, interesting intellectual, tall, thin and perhaps dangerous guy.
But this fall is everywhere and yes, we want to wear the turtleneck all the time. But since we do not want to imitate Kerouac or become sailors, it is necessary to propose a small guide of use. It will be your great ally if you keep this in mind:
Sport: the turtleneck is the new shirt
How to take it in an informal context? There are many options. The reference is Raf Simons, who places him in Calvin Klein underneath anything, as if it were underwear. The turtleneck is the new shirt, we would say. With jackets and denim shirts, he gains informality and remembers the American classics. But there is much more: Todd Snyder gives a preppy touch combining it with luxurious tracksuits and corduroy pants; and Gosha Rubchinskiy returns it to the Beat style with arty prints and berets… and a pair of tracksuit trousers. Things of post modernity.
Informal: sophisticated father
The turned neck brings us, inevitably, to progressivism and primitive socialism and, by time, that style is associated with that of our parents or our teachers. The high neck was, at the same time, practical and conceptual. Brands like Lemaire bet on him (high but not turned, eye to the nuance in this case) with trousers and trench coats, pure normcore. But going from the shirt to the sweater, a well-armed wool turtleneck, for example, we find other applications. Hermès proposes a soft and polished office look (the jersey on the inside, aims) and Bottega Veneta places it under huge crossed overcoats. That is, few elements but very well chosen.
Business: a suit for the cold
The turtleneck is one of the best alternatives to wear a shirtless suit, a very accepted and practical variant for the colder months. He recovers for example Versace, with a slightly more formal checkered dress with three buttons and seasonal colors. Also Issey Miyake, with wide proportions and neutral colors, and Ermenegildo Zegna with a very business outfit but that does not fall into the topics of the suit: white turned collar, blazer with technical pants and gabardine. The document or the bag – better always the bigger – finish making the look.
Night: rebellious again
One more application Night comes, there are walks after dinner or roads back home, and the cold squeezes. The turtleneck can be a blessing in the months with R. Saint Laurent sums up the ever recurring urban style with leather jackets and gray tones; Etro bets for the luxurious night, full of textures and prints, for more transcendent events; while Ralph Lauren puts on the turtleneck with a suede cross blazer for a sophisticated date. Leaving the neck to the air only for the kisses that surely will arrive.